Dining: The 658-seat Jubilee Dining Room and 650-seat Celebration Dining Room serve dinner in two seatings. Both are swathed with light woods and strung with tiny lights that change (many of the bulbs were out). Soft drinks are complimentary in the dining room, but not from the bars and lounges. Carnival's Fountain Fun Card program, for children under age 21, provides unlimited soft drinks for a one-time fee. Dining options have been expanded on the Fantasy, along with a greatly improved quality of food preparation. For example, rack of lamb and beef Wellington are options on ordinary nights [not the Captain's dinner] and Hispanic and Oriental influences have appeared. Some inconsistencies were noted, such as a very thin slice of prime rib and an over-dried fillet of salmon. Windows on the Sea on the Lido Deck is psychedelic with purple/peach/turquoise/black tiles and swirled flooring in the same colors, metallic umbrellas and more tiny lights. It offers alternative dining: besides cafeteria-style breakfast and lunch, dinner is served for those unwilling to dress up. Complimentary ice cream and yogurt are available in the afternoon, while pizza and coffee/tea are always available. Bistro on the Boulevard--where specialty coffees cost $1.50-$3.75 and pastries run $1.50-$4--is located on the 450-foot-long Century Boulevard, along with numerous lounges. As on most cruise ships, the wait staff doesn't volunteer the information that passengers may order second helpings or that children may order from the regular menu. Additionally, there is an outdoor grill with hot dogs, hamburgers and chicken. The dining room menus also offer Nautica Spa Fare with dishes lower in cholesterol, fat, calories and sodium than regular options. Afternoon tea and a midnight buffet round out the bill of fare.

Entertainment: Carnival's shows are arguably the best afloat. The fabulous Vegas-style shows (that doesn't mean nudity, as one fellow passenger thought) exhibit a degree of professionalism hard to beat, with extremely talented singers, dancers, costume designers -- even the lighting effects are spectacular. Reviews such as "A Broadway Fantasy" have lovers of musical comedies smiling and suppressing the desire to sing along, while "The Nightclub Express" is full of high energy. The Studio 54 segment is particularly joyous, with a rousing "YMCA" performance and "Stayin' Alive" (when chorus girls are dressed like John Travolta in his movie performance). The imaginative aerial ballet is a showstopper. Additionally, late-night, R-rated comedians entertain the grownups.

Cabins: Carnival's simply decorated cabins are more spacious than industry standards. The 566 190-square-foot outside and 389 183-square-foot inside cabins with twin beds convert to king size (those with fold-down upper berths are great for families); 19 insides [160 square feet] with upper and lower berths. There are 26 outside demi-suites with queen-size beds (226 square feet with 36-square-foot private balconies) and 28 outside suites with king-size beds and whirlpool bathtubs (350 square feet with 71-square-foot private balconies). Cabins have closed-circuit TVs, small safes, radios and telephones. Hair dryers are not standard equipment, but the steward can provide one on asking. Carnival has finally added amenities baskets in the bathrooms, from a variety of manufacturers: "The selection of amenities... represent a wide spectrum of well-respected brand name products that we believe guests will use and genuinely enjoy," said Bob Dickinson, Carnival president. But be sure to bring your own shampoo. There are 20 wheelchair-accessible cabins for the disabled. Launderettes are available for passenger use.

Fitness and Recreation: The large pool complex on the Lido Deck is the scene of live music around the pool tiled in red, yellow and black with signature blue sliding board. Those who want to indulge in water sports while in port may rent snorkeling equipment for $19 for the length of the cruise. A topless sunbathing area is situated aft on the Sun Deck. The Nautica Spa is one of the largest spa and fitness centers afloat at 12,000 square feet including beauty salon (16 pneumatic pressure machines, 7 treadmills, 2 stationary bikes, 3 Stairmasters, 2 whirlpools in the fitness center, and 1 capsule). It's operated by Steiner, as on most cruise ships. Rates are pegged to the cruise passengers and are lower here than on the more upscale ships. There's a jogging track and a total of six whirlpools.

Fellow Passengers: Lots of young families choose this ship, partly because of the complimentary Camp Carnival program. However, it also draws a complement of singles.

Clothing: For the formal night, gentlemen who don't own a tuxedo may rent one for the length of the cruise for $65, although many men opt for a jacket and tie.